Tuesday 30 December 2014

Small things in a great way.

"If you cannot do great things, do small things in a great way."
Napoleon Hill

Not so much a small thing but a huge iceberg in the forefront of my recent wine consciousness. Small Change Wines White blend is done in a great way. Screw cap, no frills packaging hides something very special within. Verdelho. Heard of that? I had, but only really to that extent. Famed for it's Madeiras, this grape rarely finds it's way into table wine. I'm so glad it did in this case.


On the nose it reflects somewhat of an unoaked chardonnay character. Lime notes and a kind of tropicality dominate. I would have spent more time thinking bout the nose, but the first nose full was so inviting I just couldn't hold myself back from drinking the thing.

The palate and mouth-feel are a revelation. Smooth succulent fruit and a rich floral character. Citrus, pineapple and passion fruit all delivered in a weighty and satisfying body that complemented the Sea Bream and Parmesan dish for dinner. Perfectly judged acidity and and a long fatty finish with ginger. There were definitely things here that reminded me of high quality Chardonnay. Then there were times when it reminded me of a warm vintage in Alsace. 
Rhys Howlett and Andrew Schonfeldt at Small Change Wines deserve a hearty pat on the back for this effort. This bottle was imported to Japan as a sample, I wish I could tell you where to get some more. Perhaps it's not too early to write a letter to Santa.

Sunday 14 December 2014

Blood and steel

Regular readers will know that I have a few predilections in the world of wine. One of them is bit part Bordeaux grapes. I hope to have some top quality Petite Verdot for you in the next few weeks but in the meantime I thought I'd try this.

Chinon Beuvez Toujours Vieilles Vignes was on sale in the basement of Isetan in Kyoto station. 100% Cabernet Franc and made from the 2011 vintage, this wine is the base of this producer's offerings. I wasn't expecting much more than an interesting time when getting my nose into this one. First I picked up some bitter tannins so descriptive of under ripe vintages but secondly I found some fruit. Not a cascade of juice by any means but a restrained blueberry and something more readily identified with white wines. Zest. There was definitely a citrus zest component to the nose. It certainly refocused me on this Chinon.

First impressions on the palate were good. Structural for a light wine, there is a definite beginning, middle and end to this. Hard as nails first up, with an astringent iron tannin. Food wine, of course. Mid palate was where the blue fruits were. Not full frontal (and this wine could definitely do with more) by any means, These blueberries were tart and short, soon giving way to to a gentle citrus zest acid/bitter combination. Lemon? No. Lime? No. The closest I could think of was peel from mixed fruit marmalade.

Short finish, but one where the what remained of the tannin made itself known. Surprisingly fine for a wine at this price point, but not really good enough to lift this wine above the level of acceptable competence.

Interesting drop but wine geeks only need apply.