After another warm autumn afternoon of barbecue and chat on the roof of Wine Bar Libero.
Then the unexpected happened. One of the guests suggested that we top the day off with something a little more special than the sturdy, worthy wines that were designed to compete with Shohei's trademark tandoori chicken. I heartily agreed, as one is want to do after drinking a bottle of wine by 5:30pm. I'm certainly glad I did.
First the Pauillac. Very pleasantly surprised here. I was expecting a competent 2005 left
banker, but got something a lot better balanced and delicious.
My
expectations weren't sky high as I'd got this at a pretty hefty
discount, but upon decanting it became clear just from the rich, dark
fruit nose and faint hints of dried vanilla pods that this was a surprise package. The sweet dutch tobacco once it had opened up with the air raised my expectations further.
Beautiful balance, plenty of left bank character, very well judged oak and just the right amount of tannin for my tastes. The structure really let the fruit component of the palate sing. Just a smidge of residual sugar to add to the overall air of opulence. Evolved well in the glass to the extent that it made me hungry for more meat. That really was an achievement after such carnivorous day.
If I had a criticism it would be a slight lack of intensity and length.
Remember, this was a sale item!
I was a little hazy by the time I came to thinking of what to write about the Puligny-Montrachet. Undoubtedly delicious, the main thing that stayed with me was the style. Arrestingly modern. The Etienne Sauzet was, miracle upon miracles, another wine with wonderful balance. Old world minerality, new world citrus, globally appealing levels of sweetness from the 25% new oak used to mature this wine. This seemed to me to be half-way between the Domaines Raveneau Chablis and Kongsgaard's The Judge Chardonnay we'd all enjoyed at the anniversary party at the same establishment a few months before. "I must get this again." I thought to myself.
Then I got the hiccups.
Not entirely unexpected.
When is a syrah not a syrah? When it tastes a little like a Cru Beaujolais. I had this preconception bending drop in the quirky surrounds of Kyoto's premier oddball wine bar, Pinot Taro.
Rene Jean Dard Francois Ribo Les Rouges Batie Croze Hermitage certainly surprises. Even if you knew that this was from the Rhone it would be difficult to pick this as a monovarietal syrah. Don't ask me about the colour (Pinot Taro is purposefully Stygian in it's lighting gloom), but the nose on this suggested a very different spice profile to that which might be expected. Bright, but not in any way Christmassy or peppery. The best I could come up with at the time was a resinous, seed like quality with hints of caraway. It's the floral component that really drives the nose. Wafts of peony that one might expect in a glass of Julienas or Chiroubles that are also heady with some noticeable alcohol.
The palate is dominated by dark fruit, but this still leads us to the unexpected. Not the bramble and pepper driven hit of syrah, but the volatility of a young Cru Beaujolais and somewhat like a fruit sauce to be served with game containing a good balance of acid and dried characteristics. Not overly long and not answering a question that anyone's asking, this wine engages on its own terms. Drink at the right price.
